Grandmother and Grandfather Mountains

Since my daughter was born a month ago, I haven’t been able to get out and stretch my legs on the trail. So when an opportunity came along to go hiking, I jumped at it. The past few weeks had been miserably hot, even to the point where escaping into the high elevations wouldn’t provide refuge from the heat. However, since nights were cool, the early morning hours were a pleasant time to be outside. So one morning, CJ and I hit up Spud Hill in Deary and made it down just in time for the heat to make life uncomfortable. Despite the haze in the air, we could see all the way out to the Wallowas over 100 miles away.

Spud Hill (elevation 4009) overlooks  Deary and the eastern edge of the Palouse.

Spud Hill (elevation 4009) overlooks Deary and the eastern edge of the Palouse.

On Wednesday of last week, temperatures actually broke 100 degrees fahrenheit, making it the hottest day of summer so far. We had to go to Spokane to pick up my mother from the airport, but because it was so hot, we didn’t even take any walks in the city. On Friday, we got a blast of cold air from Canada, but with it came smoke from a massive series of fires burning in the Northwest Territories. The smoke was so bad that even I was having trouble walking around town. Luckily, it moved out of the area over the weekend and yesterday, the air was pretty clear and still cool. There were clouds in the sky, but so far everything seemed dry, so I suggested we take advantage of the “good” conditions and hike up to Grandmother and Grandfather mountain.

The clouds were thicker over the mountains. On the drive up, I notice that the summits of each of the peaks were cloaked in the cloud, and the dark skies had the possibility of rain. But the clouds were moving quickly, and there was sunshine to the west that had me hopeful that we’d end up with a nice day on the mountain. During the hike, the summit of Grandmother Mountain came in and out of the clouds. We must have timed it just right because when we hit the summit, the low clouds had lifted and moved further out. Since it seemed nice, we decided to continue on to Grandfather Mountain.

For most of the hike, the mountains were cloaked in the clouds.

For most of the hike, the mountains were cloaked in the clouds.

At Grandfather mountain, we noticed that there was some rain to the northeast. The clouds still looked like they were moving from the northwest, but it didn’t take long to feel the raindrops upon us. We ate a quick lunch and I found a geocache on the summit that hadn’t been found since 2005.

We found a geocache at the summit of Grandfather Mountain. This cache hadn't been found since 2005.

We found a geocache at the summit of Grandfather Mountain. This cache hadn’t been found since 2005.

Though the rain never amounted to more than a light sprinkle, we got fairly damp having to hike back in it for four miles. Despite the weather, it was a great hike. The wildflowers were in the peak of their blooms and provided a colorful carpet as we passed by. There were more beargrass flowers than I had ever seen up there before. I have not hiked 8 miles at once in a while, but my leg has healed such that I was pleasantly tired at the end, but not overly sore. In fact, my good leg was aching more than the injured one. I think I might be ready for a good hiking season, that is, if I can get the time to get out.

Wildflowers blooming in the meadow on Grandmother Mountain.

Wildflowers blooming in the meadow on Grandmother Mountain.

My mom taking photos of the wildflower blooms.

My mom taking photos of the wildflower blooms.

The full trip to Grandfather Mountain is a little over 8 miles with almost 2000 feet of total elevation gain. If you don’t wish to make the full trip to Grandfather, the shorter hike to Grandmother Mountain is just as good since the best views and scenery are found on this section of the hike. Grandmother Mountain is my favorite local hike. I’ve been up here several times each year since I’ve moved out here. It’s even a popular destination for people living farther away. On this hike, we met some hikers who came down from Spokane. That’s impressive considering there are plenty of great places to hike with a shorter driving time from the city.

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Introducing Clara

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On Thursday, June 19, my 32nd birthday, Erin woke up having contractions that were 10 minutes apart, give or take a minute. This persisted through the morning. By the afternoon, the contractions had gotten closer together. We left home around 2:30 and an hour later, we were at the birth center in Moscow.

Clara would have been born at the birth center with the midwife attending, but upon the final moments, we discovered she was breech. So, Erin was transferred over to the hospital where Clara came into this world ass-first at 10:47 pm.


Since we’ve arrived home, life has certainly changed. We now have much less free time and live on a sleep-deprived schedule. Greta immediately adored Clara, and she doesn’t seem to mind the dog either.Clara and Greta

If I don’t seem as active over the next few months, this is why. I still hope to sneak in the occasional hiking trip, but they will be limited. It’s a worthy sacrifice.

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Mexico, Auroras, and other June Fun

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I’m a bit late getting some updates out, so I’m going to condense about 3 posts in to one in the hopes that I can get caught up. So let’s start with my trip to Mexico.

If it wasn’t obvious from my last post, I went down to the Mayan Riviera with Erin and the rest of my family to celebrate the marriage of my sister and now brother-in-law. We all stayed at an all inclusive resort on the beach in Playa del Carmen, which sounds like a great idea, but in practice, I don’t think I’ll ever do it again. Don’t get me wrong, it’s nice being able to walk up to a bar and drink as much as I want, or to grab food from any of the numerous restaurants and snack bars at any time. But the food was mediocre at best. Part of the excitement of visiting another country is to sample the local cuisine, and I feel a little cheated out of that experience.

In addition to the wedding, this was a pseudo honeymoon for Erin and I, since we never really got to take one after our wedding. We were celebrating our 4th anniversary while we were down there, and this would be our last vacation with just the two of us. So, a relaxing vacation on the beach didn’t seem so bad. We got in on Wednesday, May 28 and on Saturday, it rained. It continued to rain fairly hard and steadily until we left the following Wednesday. So, in the end, we got two good days at the beach. But I got no reef time in either. It doesn’t help that after the wedding, I wasn’t feeling too good. I think it was something I ate.

My sister’s wedding was at a place farther inland in the middle of the jungle. The rain did help cool things down, but the humidity was still a pain to deal with, especially inside. So, I had to step outside often to get some fresh air. The rain does have a positive effect of bringing out frogs. In fact, I managed to find three species of tree frog, and heard several more. These guys are so cool.

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I also managed to get in some birding and herping for lizards. One night, Erin and I walked along the edge of the jungle and beach at night and found an anole, though I don’t know what kind. The most frustrating part of the whole trip was finding all these new and awesome species of animals and not having any resources with which to identify them. This is the last time I travel without at least a bird guide.


A day after we returned, we got notice of a red alert for an aurora. We were still exhausted from travel, and I was going to blow it off, but just before bed, I stepped outside and saw one of the brightest light shows that we’ve had to the naked eye. I grabbed my camera and captured a few images. It was worth losing some sleep over.

Aurora Borealis

Erin got word that there were Mountain Lady’s Slippers in bloom at Idler’s Rest. So, one day, we headed into town with the dogs and went for a short walk through the park. We found the orchids that I have been searching after for the past four years.

Mountain Lady's Slipper

Last Thursday, I celebrated my 32nd birthday. Erin gave me the best present I ever have and will receive for a birthday. But I’ll save that for another post.

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Flight Paths

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If you don’t already know me, I have a thing for maps and geography. It’s an absolute delight to see the landscape from the air. I’ve been bringing my GPS with me when I fly, mostly to keep track of flight progress and to identify what I’m seeing out the window. But it’s also interesting to see how the FAA routes flights. Spoiler Alert: it’s not a direct path between cities.

The two tracks above show the flight path between Phoenix and Cancun in both directions. The straight line between the two airports would cross into Mexico from New Mexico and remain over Mexican airspace except for a few points at the lower spurs of Texas. In fact, I was sure that this is what we were doing, but hadn’t paid close attention to the borders on the map. Of course, later it hit me that we were being routed to stay in American airspace as long as possible, which seemed odd for a flight headed to Mexico in the first place.

I wasn’t able to get tracks of the flights between Spokane and Phoenix. Apparently, the Airbus A319 is better at blocking GPS signal than a Boeing 757. But for the most part, I can identify landmark features by sight along that route. Overall, the flights were nice. We flew over Hells Canyon and I saw the expansive Frank Church wilderness (on the way down) and the Wallowa Mountains (on the way up). The Wallowas still have way more snow on them than their eastern neighbors. We flew past the Ruby Mountains in northern Nevada, the same mountains I was amazed to see from the ground when we drove down there two years ago. We flew past Cedar Breaks and Zion National Park, and we flew over the Grand Canyon, the first time I had actually been able to see it from the air. On the flight home, we flew right over Lewiston and Pullman before landing in Spokane. had I been on the other side of the aircraft, I would have been able to see my house from above.

On the flights between Phoenix and Cancun, I saw White Sands, the Guadalupe Mountains, and then the flat lands of Texas. Over the Gulf, I noticed spots of brown, probably oil stains from all of the drilling. Once we hit the Yucatan, I noticed a decidedly different terrain. Everything was green and fairly unbroken. It’s mostly undisturbed jungle with a few roads and dwellings. But for the most part, a sea of green. Quite a contrast to the American west, which is brown and arid, but also carved up with roads and farm fields. Of course, the geology of the Yucatan likely makes it a poor place for large scale farming, and the jungle is now largely protected for its ecological value.

I find it fascinating to look at the world from above. It provides a sense of scale and context to the places that we use and enjoy, and really cements how connected everything really is.

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What might the native prairie have looked like?

Prairie Flowers

It’s hard to imagine what America’s prairies looked like when they were unspoiled. Today, more than 95% of our prairies and grasslands have been repurposed for agriculture. The last remnants are so highly fragmented that it’s a fight to keep non-native invasive species from taking over. Prairies and grasslands were once thought to be ecological wastelands, a monoculture of grass with not much productivity. From a distance, the prairie might seem like a boring place. But up close, prairies have the capacity to harbor more diversity than some forests. To really appreciate all that these grasslands have to offer, it’s best to visit in the spring when the sea of green gives way to shades of blue, purple, orange, yellow, and red. And it doesn’t just stop with color. Strange shapes adorn the prairie plants.

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Prairie Smoke

Take the Prairie Smoke (Geum triflorum) for example. This plant has one of the strangest looking flowers you’ll ever see. It’s not an easy plant to find, but I managed to come across a fairly large portion of its habitat while out geocaching on Sunday.

I had discovered a cache called Broken Top a few months ago when the area was still too snowed out to visit. I figured that now might be a good time to go before the temperatures became unbearable. I also figured that this would be the peak bloom for most of the wildflowers. I was not disappointed. I picked up Wesley in Moscow and we headed down to Waha Lake for a day of exploration and geocaching.

For Memorial Day weekend, Waha Lake was decidedly uncrowded. It’s a small lake in the mountains south of Lewiston. There is a small municipal park at one end that serves as a campground. There’s nothing special about it, but the camping is free and it seems like a nice place to just get away for a night. The cache “Broken Top” sits near the summit of one of the “peaks” near the lake. You could probably access it directly from the lake via ATV trails, but we opted to drive up to the Idaho Fish&Wildlife parking area. The road up to the “trailhead” is amazing. As you ascend, you can look over the Lewiston-Clarkston valley and onto the palouse. This time of year, it transverses some open meadows that are full of wildflowers. It was during one of these that I noticed the Prairie Smoke. I stopped the car and we got out to look closer.

Prairie Flowers Prairie Flowers Lupin The View on Homestead Road

 

There’s no real trail to the geocache, so it was quite difficult to climb the hill without stepping on something that isn’t grass. There were so many plants in bloom that if I had stopped to identify all of them, we never would have made it to the cache. But, of the flowers I could identify, we saw Arrowleaf Balsamroot, Lupin (possibly two species), Prairie Smoke, Paintbrush (at least 2 species), Larkspur, Camas, Wild Hyacinth, Cat’s ear, some species of milk vetch. This list is in no way exhaustive, and perhaps I’ll return when I get back from vacation and create a more substantial list.

The scenic views from the geocache are nothing short of spectacular. In addition to looking over the Lewiston-Clarkston valley and the Palouse, you look straight down in to the Snake River. Across the canyon, the tips of the Wallowa Mountains peak up above the western rim.

Snake River Canyon

 

Wesley and I set out to hike a bit and find some geocaches. We ended up with a magical adventure. Idaho never ceases to amaze me. I’d like to think that the place we experienced resembles the unspoiled Palouse, though I realize that the meadows we explored weren’t completely unspoiled themselves, nor were we actually on the Palouse. But it must have been a wonderful place before it was turned into wheat fields.

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Evo-WIBO and the Olympic Peninsula

I’m two weeks on this post, but forgive me because the last two weeks of the semester have been insane. The bi-annual northwest evolution conference, Evo-WIBO, occurred the last weekend of April. If you don’t remember, I attended the last meeting two years ago and presented a talk on the results of our selection experiment. This year, I presented a poster (my first) on the use of function-value trait analysis to analyze video tracking data. In short, we can use functions to describe behaviors over time and use more details in the data than if we were to simply distill it all down to a single mean number.

In many ways, this conference was more useful to me than the last one. This is the first conference in which I presented on work that is truly my own. Even at Evolution last summer, I had been presenting on data using the the selection lines, and though I spent so much time working on that project, it came out of a previous student’s dissertation, and I won’t be able to use it in my own. I still had tons of fun socializing and talking science with other students and faculty from neighboring states. As a 4th year graduate student, I felt more confident in my knowledge of evolutionary biology, and therefore could have more meaningful conversations. In the upcoming years, the purpose of conferences will shift to finding a post-doc, though I’ve already got some potential labs on my radar.

I don’t want to focus on the conference. Instead, I’d like to shift focus to my time after the conference: exploring the Olympic Peninsula. Two years ago, I felt it was a shame to drive all the way to Port Townsend for two nights only to return without seeing the sights. So, this year I vowed to take advantage of the location and spend a couple of days in Olympic National Park. I convinced three others to stay and explore with me. Here’s our adventure.

Friday, April 25

Petrified logs in Washington's Columbia River Valley.

Petrified logs in Washington’s Columbia River Valley.

Two years ago, as I crossed the Columbia River for the first time, I found out that Washington has a petrified forest. At the time, I had to pass it by. This year, I deliberately made it a place to stop and stretch my legs. The Ginko Petrified Forest is neat, but unfortunately, we were before the summer season and the visitors center wasn’t open on a weekday. There are numerous logs on display outside with an overlook on the Columbia River. A set of petroglyphs had been relocated here when the nearby Wanapum Dam was built. There are a few hiking trails in the park, but they did not take off from the visitors center, and we didn’t really have time to walk them. It was a nice stop, and some day I’ll make it back out there with more time to explore.

Columbia River

Monday, April 28

Dungeness Spit

The conference ended at noon on Sunday. We walked around Fort Worden while waiting for our 4th member to arrive from Seattle. After a delicious seafood dinner in Port Townsend, we drove to the Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge to camp. In the morning, I walked around the little county park to do some birding and geocaching while the others got moving. We then headed into the wildlife refuge to check out the Dungeness Spit, a 5.5 mile sandbar that juts out from the mainland. The sand deposition has created a harbor for wildlife. We saw many species of waterfowl including loons, grebes, surf scoter and more. We even had a seal follow us for a while. We were hoping to see a whale, but had no luck in that department.

There is a lighthouse at the end of the spit. From the parking lot, it’s a 5.5 mile one-way walk. Since we got a late start relative to the tide, we didn’t make the lighthouse a priority. At low tide, it’s a nice gentle walk along the beach. At high tide, you’re confined to the upper stretches of the beach, which limits you to climbing over giant pieces of driftwood. The lighthouse is staffed and provides bathrooms and drinking water to those who venture out that far. After our hike on the spit, we headed into Port Angeles and then on to the Sol Duc valley where we made camp for the night and soaked in the hot springs at the resort.

Tuesday, April 29

IMG_3544The Sol Duc campground is incredibly beautiful. It’s situated on the banks of the Sol Duc River in the midst of an old-growth forest. The best part about visiting Olympic National Park in April is the relative solitude and lack of crowds. Although only one loop of the campground was open, we had no trouble finding a campsite.

It hadn’t rained overnight or the previous evening, but everything was wet and damp in the morning. The sky was overcast, and that had me excited for appropriate light conditions for photographing waterfalls. Our destination for the day was the Hoh Rainforest, but since Sol Duc Falls was less than a mile’s hike in, I convinced everyone that we should make the hike before heading out.

Sol Duc Forest Waterfall on a side creek At Sol Duc Falls

 

The forest at Sol Duc is absolutely gorgeous. The trees are all 150-200 feet tall, and many are enormous in girth. Every log and rock is covered in a layer of moss. Small creeks tumble down from the side. And then you get to the waterfall. Sol Duc Falls drops 48 feet into a narrow gorge. The interesting part is that these falls enter the gorge from the side, rather than head-on. Sol Duc is perhaps the most picturesque waterfall in the park. From these images, it’s not hard to see why.

Sol Duc Falls

 

After a nice morning at Sol Duc, we drove out to Forks where we stopped for lunch and a re-stock on food for camping. By the time we made it into the Hoh Rainforest, the sun had come out in full force. The rainforest is quite a stark contrast with the forests of northern Idaho. For one, the humidity in the air is above 80%, on par with life in the southeast. On this April day, temperatures rose into the high 70’s or low 80’s. On all accounts, it was beautiful weather, except for photographers. In the forest, full sunlight creates high contrast conditions that are incredibly difficult to deal with. Either you keep details in the shadows and get highlights that are blown out where the sun is shining, or you get good exposure for the sunlit spots, but everything else is nearly black. I spent some time taking multiple exposures to blend together in Photoshop using the built-in HDR tools. I think this compromise worked well, though I still would have liked overcast and even rainy conditions.

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The Hoh Rainforest is unlike any forest I’ve been in. In addition to the huge old-growth spruce, fir, and cedar, the forest is full of maples. These trees are covered from top to bottom in epiphytes. A blanket of moss covers every open surface, and that creates a substrate for ferns to grow. Seeds from the larger trees might not even make it to the ground, instead settling among the epiphyte communities and sprouting mid-way up the trunk of an existing tree. Those that die and fall over are quickly overrun with new plants. These nurse logs serve as nutrients for a new generation of forest dwellers. It’s not uncommon to see a row of large trees with a hole in their base where the nurse log once nourished them.

Look how big that tree is! Maple Grove Hoh Rainforest

After spending some time at the Hoh Rainforest, we headed out for Quinault lake where we planned to spend the night. On the way, we stopped for a brief leg-stretch at Ruby Beach. Like the Dungeness Spit, the coastal beaches on the Pacific are full of giant driftwood logs. The beach is a rock beach below a cliff. Sea stacks rise like pillars from the waves. On a longer trip, we would have spent a whole day on the coast, but we were in a rush to set up our campsite before dark.

Ruby Beach

The only campground open was Willaby, but I think it was the nicest campground that we stayed at the entire trip. Willaby sits on the shore of Quinault Lake among a patch of old-growth forest. The campsites are spread farther apart than those in the national park, and they’re also smaller. Most of the sites would accommodate only one tent, but we managed to find one that fit two, and it was on the lake shore.

Quinault Lake

View from out campsite on Quinault Lake.

Wednesday, April 30

Quinault is a great place to spend some time. There is a system of trails in the national forest across the road from the campground. These trails traverse a beautiful rainforest and visit some waterfalls and some incredibly large trees. There’s even a waterfall just outside the campground. But on the other side of the lake, there’s another maple forest in the national park. We hiked the loop in the Quinault Rainforest, which passes through an old farmstead. After having been in the Hoh Rainforest, I think I like the Quinault better. There are fewer downed trees and fewer people. The forest habitat itself is similar, but the solitude and the historic homestead add to the beauty.

After our jaunt through the Quinault Rainforest, we headed home. It took us 8 hours to drive 430 miles, stopping only a handful of times for bathroom breaks and once to refuel. Olympic National Park is huge. I’m glad I suggested two full days to enjoy the area, but in reality, two wasn’t enough, even in April when access to the high country is restricted to skis and snowshoes. The low-land attractions seem like they’d be short, but they are spread out such that driving from valley to valley takes at least an hour, sometimes more. Spring is a great time to visit the coast and the rainforest. Summer is great for trekking into the alpine portions of the park. I’m glad to have gotten a taste of what the park has to offer, but it remains high on my list of places to return. We never made it up to Hurricane Ridge, and I’d like to backpack into the wilderness. Olympic National Park is pretty awesome.

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Scenic Drives and Cemeteries

I really enjoy the small historic cemeteries that dot the Palouse. They’re tucked away on obscure roads or in the middle of farm fields in places where you wouldn’t think to go. They’re incredibly peaceful and scenic and full of local history. So, I decided to visit a few local to my house along one of my favorite drives (See the map above). This loop takes you into some remote corners of the Palouse region with some awesome scenery. If you have a free day with some nice weather, consider this for your day out.

Texas Ridge Road

While Spring lurches onto the Palouse, winter is still in full force on top of Grandmother and Grandfather Mountains.

While Spring lurches onto the Palouse, winter is still in full force on top of Grandmother and Grandfather Mountains.

The first part of this drive takes off from Deary down ID-3 and turns onto Texas Ridge Road. If you want to leave the main road even earlier, consider turning onto Drury Road instead. It will meet up with Texas Ridge Road. These gravel roads take you through the rolling farmland along Texas Ridge. You’ll pass the Elwood Cemetery followed by an old one-room school house that’s still standing. The road then winds its way to the rim of Potlatch Canyon where you soon realize just how high up you actually are before descending down into the canyon and meeting up with Cedar Ridge Road near Kendrick.

A view into the Potlatch Canyon from the end of Texas Ridge.

A view into the Potlatch Canyon from the end of Texas Ridge.

Cedar Ridge

If you head right, you’ll end up in Kendrick, a small and once prosperous town at the bottom of the canyon. That way leads to some great scenic driving options as well, but for this loop, we’ll head left on Cedar Ridge Road. You’ll start by winding along the Potlatch River. This time of year, the water level is up and you might spot kayakers playing in the rapids. By the end of summer, the water level drops so low that fishing this stream becomes difficult. After a few miles on the river, the road ascends the canyon and you find yourself on the opposite rim from where you started.

Cedar Creek Canyon

Cedar Creek Canyon

Cedar Ridge Road actually branches off to the right once you reach the top, but you’ll want to stay on the paved road, which becomes Linden Road. To get to Gold Hill Cemetery, take an immediate left onto Parsley Road. You’ll see the cemetery on the hill with Moscow Mountain behind it in the distance.

Gold Hill Cemetery lies on the hill to the left. Moscow Mountain rises in the background.

Gold Hill Cemetery lies on the hill to the left. Moscow Mountain rises in the background.

The cemetery is incredibly beautiful. From the hill top, you can view the landscape in almost every direction. Peer down into the canyon from where you came, gaze across at Texas Ridge and beyond to the Idaho Palouse. Look upon Moscow Mountain, Spud Hill in Deary, and countless other peaks that make up the foothills of the Clearwater Mountains.

Potlatch Canyon

 

The rural cemeteries give an insight into life when this was still considered the frontier. Life in the late 19th and early 20th centuries was difficult. Most of the markers from this time are from people under the age of 50. Many are small children. But as hard as life was, people stayed. Many of the same families still live nearby and continue to use the cemetery as resting places of their recently deceased. The oldest stone in this cemetery dates to 1889. The most recent is from last year.

A number of stones at Gold Hill mark the site of young children.

A number of stones at Gold Hill mark the site of young children.

Park Road

Continue north on Linden Road and you’ll ascend the end of a mountain ridge, then drop into Boulder Creek, and rise up on the next piece of flat ground. This valley is tucked between two mountain ridges and isolated from the Palouse by the deep Potlatch Canyon. Here you’ll find the Park Cemetery, another old community burial ground with scenic surroundings. Park road continues to the Potlatch River canyon where it meets up with the Little Boulder Creek campground and the five-mile hiking loop that I often walk. This is a good place to stretch your legs and wade in the river on a hot day. The campground also has a day use picnic area.

From here, your drive is almost over. Park road ends at ID-3 at Helmer. There’s not much to Helmer, but the cafe and country store is pretty well-known for its burgers. Stop in for lunch or dinner, but bring cash. They don’t accept credit cards. From here, you’re only 3 miles from Deary, where we started.

Here are some more images from this drive:

There are tons of scenic roads and historical sites throughout the Palouse region. Sometimes, all you have to do is find a road and as “where does this go?” You’ll discover some amazing things. Much of my discoveries have come from exploring these obscure roads and “getting lost.” But I’ve also found interesting places through geocaching. In case you don’t know what it is, geocaching is a kind of navigation and orienteering game where people hide containers in interesting places and post the coordinates at geocaching.com. Sometimes the containers have items for trade, and some just have a logbook to sign. Some are easy to find, others are quite challenging and innovative. Often, they are placed in unique and interesting locations, bringing people to places that they might otherwise pass by. The game is free to play, and with smartphones containing a GPS antenna, there’s not even a need to buy a traditional GPS receiver. I’ve hidden four geocaches along this route, and there are several more at the campground and hiking loop hidden by other users. It’s just one way to explore the country.

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Asotin Creek

Bighorn Sheep at Asotin Creek.

Bighorn Sheep at Asotin Creek.

It’s funny that only two weeks ago, I was clearing snow from my driveway, and now there’s hardly any sign of winter left on the Palouse. Instead of snow, it rained for nearly a week straight. So when we caught a break in the weather on Saturday, I was quite happy to take advantage and begin my spring hiking season. I chose to go to Asotin Creek.

The town of Asotin is located five miles south of Clarkston, Washington. It is here that Asotin Creek empties its water into the Snake River. But the hiking begins about 20 miles upstream deep in a 1500 foot canyon. Summers are hot and dry. In the spring, the hill sides are green. In the fall, the deciduous vegetation adds a splash of color to the dry landscape. In winter, the area is closed off to motorized vehicles to protect the wintering herds of elk and other large game. It takes just over an hour to reach the trailhead from Moscow, making it a great destination for a day trip.

Asotin Creek is a special place for me. It was the fist hike I ever did in this area, and that was before I even moved out here. I come to Asotin Creek to hike a few times a year, but really I should come more often. On this trip, I hiked in about 5 miles, farther than I have made it in previous trips. As you get farther back into the canyon, the forests begin to take over the bottom. By the time you reach the Blue Mountains, there are trees up both sides of the canyon. But I’m afraid I can’t quite make it that far in one day, at least not without a shuttle waiting for me at the other end. But I am tempted to bring my backpack and spend a night or two along the creek. I always forget that it’s a place to get away without having to travel too far from home.

I’ve always heard stories of the bighorn sheep that reside in the canyon. One of my Flickr contacts sees them every time. I never had such luck until this last trip. I had been looking for them on the entire hike in, and finally, on the way out, I spotted about 6 of them on the opposite wall of the canyon. The photo above is as good of a shot as I could make with a 105mm lens.

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Palouse Photography: Waiting for the right light

This post will demonstrate just how fast light can change, especially during sunrise and sunset.

View of Moscow Mountain and the Idaho Palouse.

View of Moscow Mountain and the Idaho Palouse.

View of Moscow Mountain and the Idaho Palouse.

View of Moscow Mountain and the Idaho Palouse.

Moscow Mountain and the Idaho Palouse at sunset.

Moscow Mountain and the Idaho Palouse at sunset.

These three images, taken in the same location on the same day within a half-hour window, demonstrate just how quickly light can change. Therefore, it is often necessary to scout out locations before setting up your desired image so that you can be ready to capture the scene when the light is perfect.

Of course, perfect light is a subjective quality. All three of these images are wonderful, which means all three lighting scenarios are desirable. I spent as much time as I could at this spot, snapping images as the light changed. In fact, I was hoping that the entire cloud would light up pink as the sun sank below the horizon, but only the edge glowed with color. Still, there’s nothing lose by trying. I can always return to this spot if the conditions appear to improve.

There are always times when you don’t have this luxury. When traveling, for instance, you’re likely to visit a place once and move on, so you only have the lighting and weather conditions present at the time. Some times you get lucky, and some times the conditions are less than ideal. But if you ever do get the luxury to scout locations ahead of time, take that opportunity, because you’ll return with some amazing images.

Moscow is home to the University of Idaho, the state's largest university.

Moscow is home to the University of Idaho, the state’s largest university.

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A President’s Weekend in McCall

I can’t believe February is almost over an I haven’t made any posts yet. I’ve been plugging along with classes and research and laying fairly low for financial reasons. I’m not skiing this year, which helps out in keeping my costs down. I have been snowshoeing more this winter than in the past, and that’s helping to keep me in shape, but it’s not quite as often as I’d like. In part, it’s due to time constraints, and in part it’s due to the weird weather we’ve been having this winter. We’ve had less snow than in winters past, and when we do get a big snowstorm, temperatures warm up and we lose the accumulation pretty quickly. At least, that’s the case down here in the lower elevations of the Palouse. It’s a slightly different scenario higher up.

While the grass was out in Moscow, McCall was still buried under a few feet of snow, though warm weather threatened that as well. Last year, about 20 post-docs and graduate students got together and rented a house for a ski weekend in McCall. Apparently I didn’t post about this little adventure. We went down during the first weekend of McCall’s winter carnival, which also coincides with Brundage’s Beer and Gear weekend in which the ski shops set up gear demo stations and the local breweries brings some brews to try out. But since none of us actually demoed the gear, and the beer portion of the festival wasn’t anything special (no beer garden, no discounted pints), we decided to return during a 3-day weekend to have more time to play. Again, we had about 20 of us on this trip, and we found a really nice house to accommodate us. I also had a few people not skiing who could join me for some alternative fun. This is the story of our weekend.

Day 1: Snowshoeing to Molly’s Hot Springs

I had two goals on my agenda for the weekend: To do lots of snowshoeing, and to soak in a hot spring. Luckily, I could satisfy both in one trip. Molly’s Hot Springs is located about 90 minutes south of McCall (really only 50 miles of driving) near the Warm Lake recreation area. It would generally be accessible by car with a short walk to the springs, but in winter, only the main road to Warm Lake is plowed. This leaves us with a 2-mile hike in the snow along the unplowed forest service road along the South Fork of the Salmon River. At least, that’s what it was supposed to be. The nearest available parking was about half a mile down the road at a second unplowed FS road. The two run fairly parallel with a small mountain between them. According to my map, there was a connecting road on the opposite side of this mountain which would extend the hike to the springs to 3 miles, but allow us to make a full loop instead of an out-and-back hike. So, we chose this option.

For the first two miles, the hike was great. The road had been packed down by snowmobiles which makes snowshoeing quite easy. Even the cross-country skier in our group was having a great time. We made it to the connecting trail in about one hour. That’s when the easy part ended. The connecting road turned out to be an old logging road no longer maintained. As a result, there were no snowmobile tracks to walk on. But no problem, right? The snow pack was three, maybe four feet deep, though this wasn’t your dry, fluffy powder. The warm weather did extend to McCall and Warm Lake and even though we were above 5000 feet, temperatures had been above freezing. This was three or four feet of wet, heavy snow. But even with three of us, we should have been able to make a nice little trail. When I took my first steps, I sank down to my knees. It was way more unstable than I had expected, and that was with snowshoes. But what choice did we have? Our goal was to reach the hot springs, and this was the only way to possibly reach them with enough time to soak.

The main problem is that even when the first person sinks, the next person to step in that footprint may sink even lower. It dawned on me that we had been hiking on a road previously, a solid surface. We were now walking on top of small trees that were growing back and reclaiming what had once been a road many years ago. The vegetation under us was small enough to be completely covered by the snow, but it was enough to create tree wells, pockets of air under the snow that collapsed as soon as we stepped on them. Not every step sank so deep, so it became a game of how long would it take before you were plunged waste deep. If there was a way to break your leg snowshoeing, this would be it. Meanwhile, our cross-country skier was able to continue along just fine. This might be one of the advantages to taking skis into the backcountry.

It took us over an hour to travel 0.8 miles. When we finally reached the other road, we were ecstatic to be on snowmobile tracks again. But the hot spring was another 0.2 miles on a side road. We were still falling through the snow, but it wasn’t quite as bad. A bridge crosses the river and the hot springs are located up the hill from the opposite bank. We got to the bride around 3:00 pm, too late to take time to soak without having to hike out in the dark. But I wanted to check out the pool anyway.

Molly’s Hot Spring is the last in a series of springs along the South Fork of the Salmon River, heading upstream from Warm Lake Road. The other springs are closer to the river, and in late summer and fall, are easily accessible. In the winter, you don’t want to cross the cold river, and in the spring, the soaking pools are submerged by the snowmelt and runoff. Molly’s Hot Spring is high enough up the hill and near a bridge to avoid any of these problems, so it’s technically a year-round soaker. The hot water runs down the hill and is piped into a pool that’s not very deep and large enough for maybe four people to fully submerge, though you could probably squeeze six in and still be comfortable. Had we known the connecting trail was going to be so treacherous with snowshoes, we would have just come the other way and saved some time and energy.

The total loop was about six miles, and we made it in 4 hours and 45 minutes. The snowmobile tracks ended about halfway back to Warm Lake Road, adding a little extra difficulty to the last bit of the hike. As we approached the road, we met a group of 12 or so students from Boise State who were snowshoeing in with large packs to spend the night near the hot springs. We sure could have used the path they make our exit easier. Once we hit Warm Lake Road, we were able to take off our snowshoes and walk the remaining half-mile on pavement.

The warm Lake area seems quite beautiful. Unfortunately, it was snowing pretty heavily on the way in, and the clouds remained low for much of the hike. We had scattered snow showers  that turned into scattered rain showers later in the day, but nothing so wet that we were miserable. I was able to see the mountains a bit as we hiked out. On our way back, we stopped at Trail Creek Hot Springs, which are just off the road near Warm Lake. Although this one is road-side, the approach includes a steep decline down the bank to the creek. You’re actually quite hidden from the road, so you don’t notice your proximity. The soaking pools are first class. Two rock and mortar pools were made along the creek and pipes from the source bring hot water to each. The water is so hot that it must be mixed with the cold creek water to be comfortable.

Day 2: Ponderosa State Park

After the epic snowshoe adventure of Saturday, I decided we should keep things light and simple and close to home. But since Anahi had no trouble navigating the deep snow on cross country skis, the rest of us thought we’d also give it a try. Spoiler alter: cross country skiing is not easy.

When I was little, and by little, I mean less than 10 years of age, my parents tried to get my sister and I into cross country skiing. I hated it. It was hard work and not much fun. When I worked at the Weis Ecology Center after college, I had to teach very beginner cross-country ski lessons over the winter which would end with a trip to High Point State Park.  That winter, we didn’t get enough snow or registrants to make the trip to the park, but I did give a lesson or two, as well as get trained on the basics myself. Since then, I thought it might be good to give it another try. I finally got that chance, and while I don’t regret it at all, it sure reminded me why I wasn’t downhill skiing this year.

Ponderosa State Park is a peninsula in the middle of Payette Lake in McCall. The majority of the park becomes a snow park for cross country skiing and snowshoeing. The groomed trails should be good for beginners. I should mention that this was Tim and Daniel’s (from Brazil) first time on nordic skis. They did well. We started on a trail called Through the Woods. In hindsight, it probably wasn’t the best trail to start on, but then, we were having trouble finding the beginner trails, and thought this was one of them. It wasn’t bad, and led us to one of the beginner trails, but we wanted the one that went up the peninsula. We mistakenly turned onto an intermediate trail and was immediately confronted with a hill. First lesson: going uphill. It was tough, but doable. We got up the small hill to go down on the other side. Fortunately, the downhill wasn’t as steep as the uphill, and we all made it fairly unscathed. Then there was a second hill, and again the downhill wasn’t so bad. Then a third hill, and then a fourth. As we stood on top of the fourth hill, it became apparent that this trail would not be suitable for us beginners to continue. That also presented us with a dilemma. All of the hills we had previously conquered were steep on the ascent, but gentler on the descent. In the return direction, we’d have a steeper descent. We ended up walking down those.

We returned to the parking area via the beginner trail and stopped for a lunch break. Afterward, we found the beginner trails and took a small loop, which proved to be much better for our skill level. In fact, we got through the loop much faster than I had anticipated and we continued up one of the other easy trails until we decided it would be good to turn around and quit for the day. In all, we skied about five miles. Not bad for a first time.

Cross country skiing proved to be a bit harder on me than I expected. I was using a different set of muscles than I did snowshoeing, and I had to rely more on my knees to bear my weight and aid in balance. I knew my right knee wasn’t strong enough to handle downhill skiing this year, and cross-country skiing reinforced that notion. But nordic skiing isn’t completely out of the picture. I wonder if I continue to ski through the rest of the winter (dependent on snow) if that would help me strengthen my knee so that next year, I could hit the slopes again, assuming I can afford it next year. I hear little ones are expensive.

Day 3: Brundage

On monday, we had to pack up and check out of the house. Surprisingly, a large chunk of our group decided to leave on Sunday. The remaining folks decided that the snow was good enough to ski a third day. Originally, I had planned to stop at Pittsburg Saddle and snowshoe up to the Grave Point lookout tower if the weather cooperated for a high point view. But several of my passengers had bailed, my remaining passenger wanted to ski, and the weather report called for inclement weather. I thought maybe a snowshoe along Goose Lake Road at Brundage would be a perfect compromise. Luckily, we awoke to blue skies and sunshine and that remained through much of the afternoon, with some clouds in the sky.

In the summer, Goose Lake Road takes you back into the mountains to the Brundage Reservoir and then to Goose Lake. In the winter, it becomes a snowmobile trail. I had anticipated that the road would be packed down, and it was. I was also afraid we’d have to share it with the snowmobilers, which we did. Nevertheless, it’s still a nice road to walk on with snowshoes. The road traverses the steep side of Brundage Mountain. At around 1.5 miles from the Brundage parking lot, the trees on the downhill slope disappear, opening up a spectacular view of the Goose Creek valley, the mountains up the valley, New Meadows down the valley, and more mountains in the distance. This overlook was my goal for the day. Perhaps in the future, I’ll return and hike farther, though I’d really like to return in the summer and explore the terrain behind Brundage a bit more. There’s a campground at Goose Lake, and from there, a trail takes off for the summit of Granite Peak where there is also a lookout/fire tower.

In total, I logged about 14 miles this weekend, bringing me up to 25 miles for the year. My goal for 2014 is to hike (or snowshoe or cross country ski) a total of 100 miles. When I was working at the Mountain Campus, I would probably have reached that goal in a few months. But since moving out here, I haven’t been covering as much ground. I’m hoping that 100 miles in the year will keep me active enough to be satisfied, though with 25 miles logged in 1.5 months, maybe I can reach that goal before the baby arrives in July.

Challenge accepted.

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2013: A Retrospective

For all intents and purposes, 2013 was a shitty year. Just when we thought things couldn’t get any worse, something else would go wrong. And, so the trend continued until the final months.

The year started out pretty good. Though we’ve been struggling financially since Erin lost her nursing job in 2011, by the fall of 2012, she had a job and had enrolled at the University of Idaho to finally earn a bachelor’s degree to get her into a new career field.  With snowshoes and a new (to me) pair of skis I acquired from the WSU swap in December, I vowed to stay fit during the winter so that by the time the hiking season returned, I could go farther into the backcountry than in previous years.

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Deary and the Palouse from the summit of Spud Hill.

We had some early snowfalls last winter, so that by the time January rolled around, I was able to go snowshoeing with friends on a couple of trips. We started by taking advantage of the free day at the Idaho Park n’ Ski areas and headed up to Palouse Divide. Unfortunately, the trail we planned to hike had been cleared of snow as a logging road, but we had a good time. On the next trip, I headed up Spud Hill in Deary with CJ and ET. This is normally an easy hike, but with two feet of snow on the ground, it’s a good workout. We did make it to the summit for some awe inspiring winter views of the Palouse. The next week, we tackled the 5-mile Potlatch river trail. Our last winter hike would be to the Jerry Johnson hot springs near Lolo Pass. The snow on the trail turned out to be packed down, so we left our snowshoes in the car and enjoyed a nice walk through a winter wonderland with a relaxing soak in the hot pools. We finished January with a nice ski trip to Brundage with a large group of graduate students and post-docs.

February continued by following in January’s footsteps. The snowshoe trips waned as time commitments made it more difficult to get out. But then, during a weekend ski trip, everything changed. Until this time, I had never really broken a bone before. Then, on the last run of the day, I ended up in the hospital with a broken arm, femur, and tibia. That ended my physical activity for the rest of the season, and dashed my plans for a productive summer of hiking.

For the next few months, I concentrated on recovery. I still got out in the woods when I could, even for short trips or drives. By June, I was able to start bearing weight on my leg and start strengthening it in Physical Therapy. However, due to all of the inactivity, I had acquired a kidney stone, which was not fun to deal with. Fortunately, I passed it by the time I left for the Evolution Meeting in Utah, and I was able to complete some short hikes. In fact, I was able to climb to the summit of Mt. Baldy from the top of the tram at Snowbird. This was a major victory for me.

After the cabinets and some of the flooring had been removed.

After the cabinets and some of the flooring had been removed.

Just as things seemed like they were getting better, we had a plumbing explosion at the end of July. Yes, we had not one, but three separate leaks. I was able to fix the one in the pump house myself, but the two in the kitchen required professional attention. In fact, that led us to getting a whole new kitchen and a string of headaches dealing with the contractors. And while we’re on the subject of our water system, we came home one day earlier in the spring to find that the water pump wasn’t working. It was a relatively minor problem that required a new electrical controller in the well, but it was still an expensive problem to deal with.

Finally, in September, Erin found out she was pregnant, only to find out a week later that she had lost it. While it was an early miscarriage, this was not her first, and she we had been actively trying to conceive for almost two years with no success. One more loss was icing on the cake.

So, it’s been a tough year for us emotionally, physically, and financially. But we’re pulling through. It hasn’t all been bad. I got my first peer-reviewed publication accepted, a project I had been working on since I started graduate school. I passed my preliminary exams and advanced to doctoral candidacy. And, I’m proud to announce a bit of good news as we head into the new year:

Yes, you are looking at that correctly. This is our child at 11 weeks. As of today, Erin is 13 weeks along and transitioning out of the first trimester. If all goes well, we shall be welcoming our first child into the world in early July.

Yes, 2013 has been a tough year, but it is ending with hope, promise, and optimism. This year shall be a valley as we climb forward through life. 2014 will bring challenges, but they will be good challenges, welcome challenges. I’ve been back on my snowshoes once this year and I’m looking forward to more adventures. My leg’s not quite ready to start skiing again, but I may give cross-country skiing a try, since there are so many great opportunities around here.

I stand here looking forward without looking back. Good riddance to the old year, and Happy New Year.

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2013: A Year in Photographs

This year, I have fallen behind in my photography pursuits. It’s in part due to the events in February, and part due to not having the funds or time to get out as much as I’d have liked. I’ve been looking through some stats tracking the number of photos I’ve taken over the past few years, though a better metric is to look at the number of “good” photos that have made it onto my flickr page. Here’s a short breakdown:

Year Number of photos
2006 335
2007 310
2008 396
2009 629
2010 341
2011 421
2012 314
2013 185

For all years before 2006, there were less than 200 images shared publicly. This trend does mirror the trend for total photos taken, according to my iPhoto library. It appears that 2009 was my busiest year, which surprises me because I had so many photos I liked from 2010 that I ended up splitting my yearly album into two books. The numbers above don’t include any portrait sessions and ballroom dance events that I photographed, many of which have yielded some satisfactory results, but which I don’t post on flickr for privacy reasons.

Despite the low volume of shots, I still have some images and memories that I am quite fond of. I went through my 2013 photographs and picked out what I feel are the best 10 images from the year:

[AFG_gallery id=’9′]

Of course, you can always see the entire set over at Flickr. Think I should have included some others in this list? Let me know what your favorites are.

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Snowshoeing Moose Creek

Moose Creek Reservoir

Last week, winter returned to the Palouse. We got about six inches of snow in Deary, most of which was still around over the weekend. On Sunday, I joined a group of students and post-docs for a snowshoeing trip to Moose Creek. Although it was a foggy and overcast day, we had a great time.

I’m always amazed at how much more snow Moose Creek gets, despite its close proximity to home. I estimate the snow was about a foot deep, which is plenty for snowshoeing. We ended up hiking just under 2 miles in before turning around and heading back. I’ve forgotten how much energy is required to walk in snow, and after four miles, I was thoroughly whooped. I also brought the dogs along, including two that we are watching for other people. The four dogs had a blast and came home exhausted.

I can’t wait for more snow to fall. Since I won’t be skiing this year, I’ll be doing more snowshoeing and maybe some cross-country skiing. Erin got a pair for Christmas, so she’ll be coming along, too. And I’ve got more friends excited for some winter exploration when they return from break. It’s going to be a good winter.

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An update on the Hawk Owl

It’s been over a week since a Northern Hawk Owl was spotted hanging out across a busy street from a shopping mall in Moscow, Idaho, but the bird is still here and reliably seen in the same locations. I’ve now seen the bird four times and may continue to watch and observe it until it is no longer a novelty. Of course, that might be all winter, and the owl might actually leave town before seeing it is no longer exciting.

Today’s viewing was special. The sun came out and temperatures finally rose above freezing, making it bearable to actually spend more than fifteen minutes chasing the bird. Simon, a friend and coworker of mine, came out with me and brought some telephoto lenses to help us get some better photos of the owl. Unlike the images in the last post, these are not cropped.

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The latest hype in Moscow

Northern Hawk Owl

Northern Hawk Owl

The latest rage in Moscow, Idaho is the sighting of an immigrant that shouldn’t be here. A Northern Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula) has been spotted in Moscow across Rt. 8 from the Safeway parking lot. The earliest sightings on eBird show that this individual has been hanging around since Tuesday, reliably in the same spot.

This is an exciting discovery because the Northern Hawk Owl isn’t supposed to be seen this far south. It’s native range is exclusive to Canada, and visits to the United States are few and infrequent. It’s unclear at this time how long the owl will stay in Moscow. It’s likely to be a short-term visit, though some Hawk Owl sightings in other locations have lasted an entire winter. With any luck, it’ll hang around long enough for me to get some more photos, and maybe even procure a nice telephoto lens to shoot it with. I expect that this sighting will bring in birders from across the northwest, and even beyond, who wish to add such a rare and magnificent species to their life list. For birders and wildlife enthusiasts who live in Moscow, we are incredibly fortunate, for an opportunity such as this may only come around once in a lifetime.

The Northern Hawk Owl belongs to a minority group of owls that are diurnal, hunting during the day rather than at night.

Northern Hawk Owl

Northern Hawk Owl

Northern Hawk Owl

Northern Hawk Owl

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Look what I found

Long-toed Salamander, Ambystoma macrodactylum

Long-toed Salamander, Ambystoma macrodactylum

Since we finished the interior of the house, it was time to clean up the garage and start moving everything back inside. This was also a good time to start tidying up the yard before winter hits. Last weekend, we took down an old dog house that we were using to raise chicks in since the chicks are now old enough to roost in the main hen house. When we picked up the structure, we found that the chickens weren’t the only ones using it for a home.

And now for some other cuteness:

Mower and Jasper were cuddled on a piece of plywood.

Mower and Jasper were cuddled on a piece of plywood.

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The New Kitchen

The Kitchen before renovations.

The Kitchen before renovations.

Three months ago, we had some pipes leak in our kitchen that caused some damage to the flooring and the cabinets and resulted in us basically getting a brand new kitchen. We contacted State Farm to see about getting any coverage, and thankfully, they agreed to help cover some of the damage. So, we set about getting a contractor in to look at the damage and give us an estimate. We ended up using one that works directly with State Farm, a decision that may have caused us more strife that we were hoping to avoid, but after several delays, screw-ups, and mis-communication among the different workers, we finally have our new kitchen (and living room).

The photo above shows what the kitchen used to look like, though the island had already been removed. It wasn’t a bad kitchen. In fact, it was originally one of the reasons we liked this house. There were a few things we had wanted to change eventually. The pantry on the left blocked one of the electric outlets and took away some valuable counter space. Mostly, though, we were getting sick of the color scheme. The green and yellow can be bright and cheery, but it was also getting dirty. It was left over from the previous owner, and we wanted something that was ours. Since the kitchen had to be torn apart, we took this time to re-paint both the kitchen and living room, which is really just one big room.

After the cabinets and some of the flooring had been removed.

After the cabinets and some of the flooring had been removed.

When the contractors first came out, we were under the impression that they would be able to get everything out and replaced before school started. However, we waited about 3 weeks before they even came out and started removing the cabinets and wet flooring. In this time, the smell of mold became more and more intense to the point where we had to call them to come out and remove the damaged pieces. They set up a containment tent with their portable air filtration unit to dry out the place and get rid of the mold. That lasted for several days, during which we were slowly moving furniture out of the living room since the entire floor would eventually have to be replaced. We had a plumber come in and replace all of the steel pipe with plastic tubing. After that, we found that we could drink the tap water right from the sink without any extra filtration. Turns out it was the pipes in the house that were causing us to have rusty water. No wonder the pipes burst.

The contractors finally came and removed the rest of the floor, but neglected to order the new flooring that we wanted. Instead, they kept bringing us samples that were darker than we desired. Finally, we went to Home Depot, chose the flooring and gave them no choice but to order it. The Vermont Maple Pergo® XP looks great, by the way.

The flooring wasn’t the only hang-up. We wanted to order some nice assemble-yourself cabinets that were cheaper than the custom cabinetry at any of the building supply stores have, but better than the pre-assembled cabinets in stock. They came in to measure the walls and gave us a layout using the in-stock cabinets. Apparently, they measured incorrectly the first time and we had to wait longer for the designs to come in. At that point, we begrudgingly went with the cheap in-stock cabinets. They were to paint them white. When they came and installed them, they were barely painted. We could see the wood grain through the paint, which was unacceptable. We were ready to get rid of these guys and call a new contractor to finish the job when they came and re-painted everything.

So, what we thought would be a two to three week job ended up taking three months. Last week, they came in and made all the final touches which left us with the task of finishing up any last bit of painting, which we did this weekend. We have one wall in the back bedroom to finish painting, but as that room is mostly storage at the moment, it’s not on the immediate priority list. We still have some little work to do such as painting the island white and installing handles on the cabinets. We now have more counter space, more cabinet space, a bigger and deeper sink with a working spray hose, a dishwasher, a fan over the stove, and a nice bright new color scheme. I present to you the new kitchen.

After everything is done, we have more counter space, more cabinet space, a fan over the stove, and a dishwasher.

After everything is done, we have more counter space, more cabinet space, a fan over the stove, and a dishwasher.

We still have to paint the island and add handles to the cabinets, but the kitchen is otherwise complete.

We still have to paint the island and add handles to the cabinets, but the kitchen is otherwise complete.

The living room with its new color scheme.

The living room with its new color scheme.

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October Update

Where has time gone? It’s already October, which means I missed out on September.

Well, I didn’t really miss it. I was busy with a graduate school ritual known as the preliminary examination. Prelims are, without a doubt, the most stressful event for a graduate student. You might think it’s writing the dissertation or even giving your final defense. The truth is, by that time, you know your subject inside and out. Writing takes time, and the stress is making the deadlines, but overall, unless you slept through your graduate student experience, writing up the dissertation isn’t that difficult. The defense, generally structured as a 45-60 minute seminar followed by a couple hours of grilling by the committee, isn’t as stressful because, as I mentioned before, you know your subject inside and out, sometimes better than your own major professor and committee members.

Prelims are another story. The purpose of prelims isn’t really to test what you know, but to test what you don’t know. If you don’t know the basics in your field, then you’re not ready to be a doctorate. The structure of prelims varies from school to school, and even between departments within a school. For example, the BCB (Bioinformatics and Computational Biology) students at the University of Idaho have to write a research proposal, present it as a 45-minute seminar, and then defend it in front of their committee members. This is their prelim. The biology department is a bit more traditional. The proposal process is separate and prior to the exam and is all behind closed doors with the committee. The prelims consist of a written exam in 3 subject areas and an oral exam two weeks later. It’s up to each student/committee whether the written exams are closed or open book, whether they are timed or take-home essays, and so forth. My exams were four hours each, split over three days. Barrie gave me 7-8 questions centered around animal behavior, quantitative genetics, and evolutionary biology, and I was to answer four. I felt that this format took some of the pressure off of me, though you never really know what your committee members expect out of you.

If you’ve taken prelims seriously and studied hard prior to the exams, then the testing itself turns out to be not so stressful. The major source of stress is the anticipation, and the uncertainty of knowing just what is going to be asked of you. As a result of this tension, I over-prepared for much of it, but in the end, that worked out in my favor. One of my committee members is known for being a hard-ass. Or so I thought. It turns out, he really wants students to understand the basics. When you don’t meet that expectation, it seems as though he’s being hard. It turns out his questions were very fair. In fact, a few seemed very simple compared to my expectations. Even in the oral exam, he wasn’t the toughest in the room.

Over-all, my committee was pleased with my written answers, and I think that reflected in the orals. Typically, the oral exam is where your committee really throws curveball questions, looking to see how you respond when asked to answer questions they don’t expect you to be able to answer. And, so I knew this and was prepared to admit lack of knowledge when it was there, while making sure I could answer the relevant questions to my field of study. The oral exam didn’t even last two hours. When I was asked to step out while they deliberated, I was pretty sure I would pass. I wasn’t expecting to come back in hearing some suggestions for research ideas.

So, on September 19, almost two weeks ago, I officially became a Ph.D. candidate. And with some relief from the stress of prelims, I now embark on the stress of writing an NSF DDIG grant proposal, of which I have a week left to finish, assuming the government re-opens and the deadline hasn’t changed.

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Garden Produce

IMG_1848The tomato plants have fruit, but I’m awaiting them to ripen. The pepper plants are starting to produce. The strawberries are on their second round of harvest. In the mean time, the squash and zucchini are providing us with food of plenty. Yesterday I picked four zucchini, all from the same plant. This morning, I grabbed two more before leaving for work. This doesn’t include the half-dozen or so that we’ve already picked and are awaiting consumption in the kitchen. We’ve also got several variety of yellow summer squash as well as two green stripped squash/zucchini plants, both producing about a fruit a week.

It’s getting to be overwhelming. How are we going to keep up with all of this produce? Aside from Erin’s love of zucchini, we’re not eating it nearly as fast as we did last year. It looks like I’ll be breaking out the dehydrator again to make some zucchini chips, great for just snaking on while lounging around the house. Erin also made some zucchini break last night. She made one gluten-free and egg-free loaf that tastes good, but didn’t really cook through properly. But such is the plight of making gluten-free pastries without eggs. The regular loaves turned out great. I had a piece fresh out of the oven last night a la mode for dessert, and two more pieces for breakfast. With all this zucchini, bread might become a staple over the next few weeks.

IMG_1844This year, we planted some less-traditional squash. I say less-traditional in that they are varieties not often seen in the grocery store. Exhibit 1. Ronde de Nice. These are short, round summer squash that are supposed to be good for sautéing, baking, and stuffing. I plan to experiment with the latter. The idea is that you cut the top off the tops and scoop out the flesh leaving a hollowed out bowl. You then cook the flesh along with some other stuffing materials – onions, peppers, sausage, bread, or whatever you fancy, and return the filling to the squash before adding cheese and baking the whole thing in the oven. It sounds so delicious, yet time consuming. Thus, I haven’t actually proceeded with this plan quite yet, but the four squash I have picked are ready and waiting.

IMG_1842Exhibit 2. Kabocha Squash. Specifically red kabocha squash. These look like pumpkins and are sometimes referred to as pumpkins. These winter squash originate from east asia and are supposed to be very pumpkin-like in usage. They’re sweet and can be cooked down and used in pies, soups, pastas, and stir fries. In fact, when looking up these squash, one of the first things I found was a recipe for kabocha squash with thai curry. With so many options, I’m not sure how I’m going to use the few that I have. But these squash seem to grow better than the pie pumpkins around here, so I think we’ll look to put more in next year.

We tried growing watermelon this year. Erin bought a variety that doesn’t grow very large, though I was expecting fruit a bit larger than what we produced. But we actually did get some watermelons and tried the first one Monday night. It was either not ripe enough, or too ripe. I’m not sure. Much of the flesh hadn’t turned pink yet (or maybe the rind grew too thick?) and it just didn’t taste sweet. I maintain that we took it off the vine too early, though Erin thought they were ripe. We have a second one that we’ll wait to cut into, hoping that it will ripen more off the vine. Overall, the watermelons didn’t do so well. IMG_1845One pile of plants barely grew, the other grew sufficiently, but the leaves were always curled, a sign of not getting enough water. I think that the location of our property is just too dry to support a crop that needs a lot of water. Maybe I’ll try again next year, but it won’t be a main focus of the garden.

Overall, we seem to do well growing squash and leafy greens such as lettuce, spinach, and chard. The greens are particularly happy early and late in the season when temperatures are cooler. I’ve already removed several rows of lettuce that have bolted, but replaced them with new seeds that are already sprouting. We should have lettuce well into the fall when everything else has succumbed to the frost. The sugar snap peas grew well once we were able to keep them from getting eaten. Next year I’ll try using peas and beans to shade the lettuce. Tomatoes and peppers always struggle to ripen as the growing season comes to a close. But I love growing them, and one of these days I’ll figure out how to get them to harvest early on. It’s funny that we’re only 25 miles away from Moscow and not much higher, but the growing season is significantly shorter.

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The Joy of Home Ownership: Adventures in Plumbing

When we moved to Moscow, we knew we’d be here for more than five years and that buying our own place would probably benefit us more in the long run than renting. There are many advantages to owning your own home. The most obvious is that your monthly payments go toward something tangible. When you pay rent on an appartment, all you get back is a place to live for the month. With a mortgage payment, you’re that much closer to actually owning the place you live in, which means when you move out, you can get that money back by selling the place. It’s also freeing. We can do whatever we want to the house without having to ask permission. Don’t like the walls? We can paint them. How about a new floor? Done. Want some pets? Nobody to raise our rent for having them, or outright deny us the choice to have them. We have our own yard that we can decorate and landscape as we please, including putting in a vegetable garden.

Of course, owning a home isn’t all freedom and bliss. It costs money. We still have to pay utility costs, but when something breaks, we’re also responsible. There’s no landlord to call to have it fixed. Such is the case when we found not one, but two water pipe leaks this past week. The first leak was in the pump room in the garage. The pipe leaving the presure tank was connected to the pressure T joint via a steel coupling and a nipple. The nipple, threaded into the T, had corroded its threads and developed a small spray that was slowly getting bigger. So, when Tate came over to help me take off the broken pieces, he thought the threads inside the T had been stripped away. It was later that I found the threads to be just fine, only dirty with build-up and possibly the threads from the pipe that had come out of it. The pressure T happens to also be threaded on the outside, so I bought the proper step-down joint and repaired it. When I got the water back on, the leak had been repaired.

But it was still dripping water. This time, it was coming from the base of the quarter-inch pipe where the pressure switch connects to the T. We had some plumber’s putty and used it to try and temporarily patch the leak. It worked, sort of. The leak persisted, but had slowed to a very slow drip by morning. However, the putty should seal a small leak like that. It turns out the putty we had bought was old and starting to dry out, causing its application to be quite difficult. We picked up a fresh pack and attempted to seal the leak again. In doing so, the leak got worse. When investigating the problem, I noticed that the pressure switch wobbled quite a bit and I thought that maybe I could screw it down tighter. So, I disconnected it and soon discovered that the pipe was indeed corroded and the threads had snapped off.

In the end, I got a new pressure T and replaced the steel pipe with PVC, as the rest of the pipe had already been converted. The old iron pipe had been connected to the new PVC with a self-adhering coupling. I figured I’d use the same method which would give me an easy disconnect point should I have to take the pressure T off again in the future. Of course, on first connection, I must not have had the coupling lined up quite right. It was very difficult to screw into place and after turning on the water and noticing a small leak, the coupling slid right off the new pvc making a mess of my pump room. After some fiddling around, I got it to fit properly, and so far, there have been no leaks in the pump room.

The second leak was in the house. Erin came home from her work trip to Dinosaur National Monument and noticed that the floor in the kitchen had buckled a little bit, indicating it was wet. She then heard a small leak which we thought was coming from under the floor. But our floor is solid concrete under the laminate. As we started to tear it up, we noticed that the leak was coming from pipes behind our kitchen counters. So, while Tate was out, he helped me remove one of the cabinets which, thankfully, wasn’t installed correctly and was quite easy to remove. Again, the leak was between a steel nipple and a T-joint. The nipple had corroded through its threads spraying water against the cabinets and leaking down into the particleboard subflooring. We were able to remove a small section and replace it with pex tubing and sharkbite connections. The leak has been patched and we now have working water again. It was good to take a shower this afternoon.

The aftermath of this leak is going to be the more difficult part. Because the cabinets and subflooring are made of particle board, they quickly absorb water. We’re not entirely sure how long the pipe has been leaking, but there was a mild odor of mold and mildew. Even if the cabinets aren’t pemanently damaged, the subflooring and the floor pannels are. We’ll still have to rip out the cabinets to repair the flooring underneath and assess any other damage to the wall. In addition, these failures have us worried that more junctions are going to fail in the near future, so we’re contemplating having all of the steel pipe replaced with pex or pvc while we have the cabinets out. Worst case scenario, we’ll have ourselves a completely remodeled kitchen. At least if the damage is bad enough, our insurance policy will help cover the repair.

 The joy of home improvement projects, voluntary or involuntary, is that you come to realize how many tools you need to be a home owner. It’s not enough to have a hammer and some screw drivers. Thankfully, Tate had some pipe wrenches for us to borrow for now, but I think I’ll be investing in at least one in the near future. There are some jobs that you just need a professional for. Fixing the kitchen may be one of these. But by repairing these small plumbing faults ourselves, we likely saved a couple hundred dollars. I’m not happy about the circumstances, but it’s nice to know that some problems aren’t as difficult to fix as you might think.

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